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Most women shy away from being called “too sensitive.” But when the subject is kin they’re all too willing to wear the scarlet S. According to the American Academy of Dermatology at least 40% of women believe they have sensitive skin although most dermatologists report that only a fraction really do. Sensitivity – defined as skin that’s prone to irritation from products weather or stress – is a real (albeit misunderstood) condition. It’s not the same as an allergy. It means you have a lower tolerance for irritating ingredients such as fragrances and dyes. The evil twist here is that the more skin reacts the more sensitive it becomes. Imagine normal skin having a natural barrier like Saran Wrap. People with sensitive skin have a disrupted barrier all the time. But by identifying what disrupts that barrier and protecting it with the right moisturizer you can develop a thicker skin.

1. Read Labels – Before applying creams lotions or makeup read the ingredients list. The fewer ingredients on the label the better. All products and formulas should be free of fragrance dye and isopropyl alcohol (commonly known as rubbing alcohol). And beware of botanical ingredients and oils. Test each new product on the side of your neck for a few days before using it on your face.

2. Cleanse – Wash you face with a milky non-foaming liquid cleanser or a soap-free bar. Do not use a washcloth or any rough scrubber which can be too abrasive for sensitive skin. Rinse face well by splashing with lukewarm water and pat with a soft towel leaving skin slightly damp. There is no need to use a toner which generally contains drying and irritating isopropyl alcohol.

3. Moisturize – Dab moisturizer onto damp skin in the morning and night. Look for one that contains ceramides fatty acids or cholesterol all of which help form a protective barrier against irritation. In the morning when the moisturizer is absorbed apply a sunscreen (with an SPF 15 or higher). It should also contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide which are least likely to cause reactions.

Cheat Sheet

1. Choose the right products. “Allergy-tested” means it doesn’t have ingredients that cause common reactions. “Noncomedogenic” means it won’t clog pores.
2. Read labels. Not everyone with sensitive skin is troubled by the same thing but the most common irritants in order include fragrance isopropyl alcohol dyes PABA lanolin sorbic acid formaldehyde and benzoic acid.
3. Don’t assume that natural products are safe. Some botanicals (rosemary sandalwood arnica) and essential oils (jojoba tea tree lavender) may irritate.
4. Test samples on the neck for several days. If they don’t irritate you they’ll probably be fine for your face.
5. Don’t try an arsenal of new products at once. Similarly if skin breaks out stop using everything and reintroduce products one by one.
6. Be as gentle as possible. Use a creamy liquid cleanser or a soap-free bar and rinse with lukewarm water. Avoid Buf-Pufs and washcloths. Pat with a towel and leave skin slightly damp.
7. Moisturize with a product for sensitive skin or one that contains fatty acids cholesterol and ceramides. ...
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